Let's talk about something that seems like a lost craft - growing out natural nails. People are usually baffled when they find out my nails are natural, because when they're painted they look like acrylics. This always surpises me, as I don't even grow them particularly long, because I keep them short enough to still play the piano.
I feel like we've forgotten how strong and beautiful our nails can be without artificial help. Since I've grown out my nails, lots of my friends also decided to hop on the same train, because it saves SO much time and money to skip the salon. So, I'm here to share how I turned my once-bitten, stubby nails into something I'm proud of!
My Nail-Biting Past
For the first 25 years of my life, I was a chronic nail biter. I wish I had photos to show, but I'm also kind of happy I don't, because man, they were UGLY. As a violinist and pianist, I got into the habit of ripping or biting my nails brutally short. When I stopped playing the violin as an adult, I realized that I could afford to grow them out as playing the piano is still possible with a little length - but I was just super stuck on my gross nail-biting habit.
One day, I was just over having hands I was always embarrassed about. I wanted beautiful, strong nails, so I finally committed to start growing them out. Spoiler alert: it took me about two years to reach the level of health they're at now, but I think if I knew then what I know now, it would've taken me a fraction of the time. So here's what worked for me!
1. Shaping and Filing
Filing consistently is a game-changer. I gently file my nails on all three edges with a metal file at least twice a week, because a huge roadblock in growing out nails is having snags that turn into tears. So if there are any small issues in the edges, I immediately smooth them out to prevent them from inevitably escalating and ruining the entire nail. This is kind of equivalent to trimming split ends in your hair, just a little more extreme.
I wear coffin and oval shapes as I feel those are the most robust, and I'll usually switch between the two whenever I get a significant chip. So, for example, if I have a more square shape and break off a corner (weakest spot on the coffin) by slamming my hand into something, I'll round all corners. Then, when I break off the tip (weakest spot on the oval) I'll just file the tops into straight edges again and repeat the cycle.
I personally like metal files (all others make my skin crawl) but I know lots of people like glass files, too. Either way, I just advocate for reusable files instead of the disposable ones to save cash and of course the landfills!
2. No to Acrylics
I've never been an acrylics user, but I've seen their damaging effects on all of my friends' nails. Since applying acrylics requires filing off the top layer of your nails, and the application and removal further damages the integrity and strength of the nail, you're just take a heavy hit each round.
This usually gets everyone stuck in the acrylics-cycle, because it makes recovery such a really frustrating process, that it's easier to just toss on new acrylics. If you do want to commit to breaking the cycle, you’ll have to sit through the un-fun phase of growing out the entire length of your nail before you’ll get any decent strength, because any part of your nails that was covered by an acrylic is just going to be really brittle. So essentially, each acrylic-wear is an immediate reset to square one.
I think I've seen some people on social media that use builder gel to strengthen their nails enough to grow them out BUT I do not have any experience with this so I can’t personally recommend it.
3. Cutting Back on Nail Polish
This is the change that took my nails from 70% to 100% strength. I used to need nail polish to support my nails enough to prevent bending, but I also liked how it looked. Ironically, they are less bendy now without polish than they every were with it, which is a change I didn't expect at all. And I also do enjoy the natural tip look of the nails so much more than the polished look now.
Perhaps most importantly, I saw the layer separation that I'm sure lots of us have experienced completely stop after this change. Layer separation is like a split end on nails where only the top layer chips off at the edge, leaving the bottom layer super flimsy and useless, and continuing to crawl up the nail unless it's completely cut or filed off.
I made the decision to cut back on polish because I felt hypocritical not using any chemical products on my hair and skin, and then using the most toxic smelling black gunk on my nails. I assumed I’d have to compromise on nail strength and length, and was super surprised to see them both skyrocket. I believe this is in part due to no longer exposing my nails to those toxic chemicals, but also neither needing nail polish remover (which is super drying and harsh) nor having nail polish accidentally peel off, taking an entire layer of my nail with it.
I still occasionally use polish for events, and I have switched to a mineral type that has a slightly better ingredient list and way less hold (which makes me feel like it’s doing less damage too).
4. The Right Vitamins
Nails can actually show nutritional deficiencies via certain types of discoloration, grooves, ridges, and other visible lines (super interesting and worth looking up!). So of course, eating well sets an important foundation for general nail health. However, I have found that it improved really significantly after adding a B complex supplement to my routine.
Lots of people will tell you to just throw some biotin (B7) at nail, hair, and skin problems, but taking biotin without other Bs can cause really bad reactions, such as acne. I always recommend taking a whole B complex supplement because I mean - we’re already here. Plus, vitamin B12 actually plays quite an underrated role in the coloration of your nails.
The other supplements I’ve noticed a difference from are magnesium and omega-3. Also, make sure to prioritize iron supplements if you have an iron deficiency, because that can have a huge effect on nail health!
Conclusion
Lastly, I want to say that genetics can give you a head start, BUT I've seen so many people go through massive nail transformations (myself included), that I think it is possible for almost everyone. My absolute favorite compliments are always about my nails, because I get to reply with the very silly line: "Thank you, I grew them myself!".
Look, it's the little things, okay?
Growing out my nails was a journey of self-care and patience. It wasn't just about having pretty nails; it was about breaking a bad habit and learning to take better care of myself. If you're on a similar path, I wish you the best of luck! I hope you find what works for you. Here's to strong, beautiful natural nails!